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01:52, 29 июля 2014

the grape syrup

The melon-peach jam managed to balance two seemingly incongruent fruits into a perfect pairing. I was tempted to get down on my hands and knees and worship at the alter of mamma Rosalba, who created the recipes and oversees the jam-making, but I thought better of it. I offered additional gratitude instead. And if I wasn’t traveling with just a carry-on, you can bet my suitcase would be full of her jams and preserves. (Although last time I passed through an airport in Sicily, the security officer took the bottle of water out of my sack, that I forgot I had, unscrewed the top, took a sniff, handed it back to me, and waved me through.)

In a previous post, a few people asked me about the grape syrup that I’d mentioned, which confusingly goes by the name “confettura elisir” (conserved elixir), or “miele d’uva”, or “grape honey.” (I also saw the syrup labeled in places “grape sugar” or “grape preserve”, in English. And there is an actual jam-like confettura, that’s thick with sweetened grapes.)

The elixir is made by reducing the juice of spicy Zibibbo (Muscat) grapes with cane sugar, until it’s thick and pourable. It’s particularly delicious with salty pecorino cheese. Since a number of people asked about it, here’s what’s in it:

After the sweet came the savory, and being Pantelleria, an island known for its capperi (capers), I peered into the barrels of capers being preserved. Curiously, they had the faint smell of chocolate. Soaked only in the brine that they create as they sit with the sea salt from Trapani, after a few weeks, they’re drained, then re-salted, and sold in moist, salty pouches. Four of which, of course, are in my suitcase, as those are okay to travel with.

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